Having never been bought or sold in 1000 years Savernake Forest remains the only ancient forest in Britain still in private hands. Once covering circa 150 sq. miles of woodland, copses, common land and rough pasture, its core now consists of 4,500 acres, some 7 sq. miles of mixed woodlands. Aside from this, a number of remaining outlying areas of woodland remain, isolated from each other by modern farmland that once formed extensive ‘parklands’ shaped by Capability Brown. The signs of which can still be seen with avenues of trees joining focal points through the area, great areas of grazing land and farming settlements now small villages. The most significant avenue runs through the present day forest and at just shy of four straight miles of mature Beech stands in the record books as the longest tree lined avenue in Britain.
Whilst the earliest record of woodlands in the area date back to Saxon times, its Royal status came about in the 12th Century and there began an unbroken line of succession. In modern times the running of the forest has been undertaken by the Forestry Commission on a long term lease who put sections of the forest to productive use as well as actively managing sympathetically to the restoration and preservation of the ancient trees. Officially there is only one public right of way through the forest, however public are afforded access all year round by the kind virtue of the Forestry Commission and the Trustees.
Through the millennia the practices applied to the forest have left a diverse range of environments ideally suited to photographic interest. Whilst the forest is primarily of a broad-leaved nature there are extensive areas of coniferous plantation, open grazing and man-made features; during the Second World War the forest was used as a munitions dump. Four shallow dry valleys bring some geographical relief to the area with some areas of poor drainage, wet soil and both natural and man-made pools featuring. The forest is well served with access points and an extensive network of tracks which makes moving about the vast area pretty straight forward.
The inspiration
By far and away the greatest features in the forest are the iconic ancient Oak trees, some dating back 1000 plus years, with literally hundreds of other notable Oak, Beech and Sweet Chestnut scattered through the forest and surrounding areas. The forest is reported to have Britain’s greatest concentration of ancient Oak trees many of which have been ‘named’ and for some are stars in their own right, for example a Radiohead album is named after the King of Limbs Oak. A number of these named Oak’s appear on Ordnance Survey maps but have also been recorded by Peter Noble on a useful walking orientated map.
Standing proud these magnificent Oaks, the Kings and Queens of the forest rule over everything they see with their characteristic and graceful limbs gesturing their command. Their bark crazed and haggard with age, limbs sometimes shattered but trunks strong. Study an Oak and what do you see, strength, a soul, wisdom, and the foundations of an ancient place revered by man.
Tall and muscular, the mighty Beech of the forest reach high into the sky standing guard and protecting that which grows beneath its extensive canopy. But beware its weaknesses, that height and mass being a double edged sword as it succumbs to lightning strikes that split its heart and vicious storms that topple it over. It is a sure sign spring is upon us when fresh bright green leaves sprout from tiny buds, barely the size of your thumb its leaves bely the size of the tree. Slumbering through summer then bursting into all manner of autumn tones, surely the most colourful of forest giants.
Twisting skywards like a helter-skelter the massive Sweet Chestnuts bring forth bountiful fruit. Somewhat similar in appearance to the Oak the lush almost tropical nature of their leaves and spiral nature of the trunk clearly marks them out as something different. Even when felled their strength is obvious, their character lives on.
For me, sections of the forest are about as close as you can get to a naturally wild area in the south of the Britain. Even though the area is popular with the public it is possible to spend many hours at any time of the year without seeing another human being, more so in the photogenic periods through autumn and winter when the inclement weather keeps all but the ardent visitor away. There is no better place to spend at dawn than deep in the forest, with a crisp frost, sunlight just breaking through mist; complete stillness with the only movement and sound being the wildlife and your breath condensing in the air. That said, it could be a bit unnerving to those of a delicate disposition, particularly when the crack of gunfire rips through the air from those responsible for managing the herds of farmed deer that move between the forest and grazing pastures!
The size of the forest makes it impractical to cover the whole in a single photography session, this makes the prospect of multiple visits all the more exciting as every visit is likely to throw up different opportunities. Matched with the diversity of subject matter it is entirely possible to spend a lifetime in the forest continually producing new and different material. In fact the amount of potential can initially seem overwhelming particularly when the forest bursts into a cacophony of autumn gold, copper, orange, red and yellow. Over time though I have found the winter periods to be the most fulfilling when the colours of the forest settle down and show us their true nature in the quiet light.
Getting there
Savernake Forest lies in north Wiltshire, sitting on the southern edge of the market town of Marlborough. The main routes into the area from the north, east and west are dropping down of the M4 at junction 15 on the A346, or coming straight into Marlborough from the east and west on the A4. From the south, you will likely come up through the military town of Tidworth on the A346. The A346 itself cuts through the western edge of the forest as it traverses north-west and south-east.
There are many vehicular entry points into the forest, the three primary ones being at the northern tip of the Postern Hill Caravanning and Camping site (restricted opening hours) and either end of the Grand Avenue that runs broadly parallel to the A346. Entry points for the Grand Avenue are at the northern end of the A4 and a minor road that runs through the village of Durley servicing the southern end of the forest. To maintain the forests private status Savernake Forest’s roads shut on one day a year; usually the first working day of each year, otherwise entry is unrestricted. The main vehicular routes are well maintained but do watch out for the speed bumps and occasional pot hole though.
Aside from these entry points there are a few other tracks that service the forestry operations and private dwellings, as such these are less suitable, although not impossible for public access. Once inside the forest there are plenty of places to pull over and park. You will find some of the tracks barred to prevent vehicles moving freely around all parts of the forest, so for the general public resorting to walking or cycling are the only options to reach some parts. It is also possible to access the forest on foot or cycle from almost its entire perimeter, subject to access permissions over some areas of farmland, otherwise the main A346 that runs through the forest has a number of points you can pull of and park.
Things to see and do in the area
In the immediate vicinity there are a number of small pockets of ancient woodland that once formed a more extensive forest, one in particular warrants an article in itself; West Woods, one of the largest bluebell woods in the country. Along the southern border of Savernake you will find the Kennet and Avon Canal, a waterway with an overall length of 87 miles made up of two lengths of navigable river linked by a canal.
On the northern boundary the forest filters into the town of Marlborough, a bustling environment that holds a street market and funfair, a jazz festival and numerous other events as well as being serviced with plentiful places to eat, drink and sleep.
Move a few miles further from Savernake and you will find the Marlborough Downs and Pewsey Vale; a great spot for shooting morning mists from a prominent ridge. Of particular note are the numerous prehistoric sights that litter the area; Avebury the largest stone circle in Europe, Stonehenge which really requires no introduction and the ancient right off way; The Ridgeway, to name but a few.
It is entirely possible to base yourself, and your family, in the area for a week or more and not exhaust all the possibilities.
Other information
(Note: No affiliation to any of these organisations)
Postern Hill Caravanning and Camping
Forestry Commission: Savernake
Wiltshire Tourist Guide: Savernake Forest
Wiltshire Walks: Savernake Forest includes the most comprehensive list of named Oak’s I can find.
Download a pdf of this article